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1. Installation De System Remplacement Hdd For Mac Mac
2. Installation De Systeme Replacement Hdd For Macbook
3. Installation De System Remplacement Hdd For Mac Pro

I could not get the LCD power cable disconnected from the board - it is on really hard and there is no way to leverage it off without breaking something. My solution was to leave the screen attached and rotate it away from the work area/computer (granted you need a work surface that is large enough and a soft surface to place the screen on). If you try this method, be careful that you keep clear of the screen during the remaining steps - should not be hard. It seemed that if I ever got the connection unplugged, there would be no way to get it back under and re-attached properly. This is probably the toughest step of the entire process that needs a workaround.

LIke others mentioned, this was the most difficult step because of the awkward angle. Working alone I managed to get it off but found it much harder to line it up properly for reattachment. What I ended up doing was getting someone to hold the the LCD (resting on the left side, perpendicular to the iMac which was laying down) and I removed the 4 screws that hold the power supply in place. Removing those screws allowed me to lift the power supply a couple inches which made it so much easier to reattach. I wish I had done that when I was trying to remove the cable during disassembly. Reconnecting the LCD Connector was the only challenging part of this procedure. I must have bent the pins on the LCD connector when taking it off so was unable to reattach.

I ended up taking off a bracket that was adjacent to the LCD connector as well as the other end of the cable.O I disconnected these 2 pieces and was able to examine the other end of the LCD connector I was able to bend the pins back into place and the connector snapped back into place. The display works and the hard drive works as well. Thanks iFixIt!

As others have stated, disconnecting the inverter cable from the power supply first is NOT the way to go. I ended up damaging the cable trying to get it out before I went to disconnect it from the LCD panel end instead. Much easier to do and much less prone to damaging the cable or it's insertion socket. The guide needs to be updated and the suggestion to pull the inverter cable downward from the power supply removed. It is not a good idea and will cost you at least a few days and $10 to replace the cable should something go wrong. Please update this guide.

Get the male part out of the female fitting is a standard problem with boards. There are pulling/clamping devices you can get at electronics stores to pull the fitting out. They are like fuse pullers many car fuse boxes are equipped with. IFixit should sell them with the kit. I did it all without any problems, formatted the drive and then installed the operating system and defeated Apple who wouldn't even consider replacing the drive in my 'obsolete' machine which my wife now uses instead of a crappy Dell PC.

This cable was not long enough to reach the SSD connector for me. The adapter I used, and I suspect many used, puts the SSD centred, thus the data and power connectors a bit further away from where the original drive's connector were.

The power cable had enough give to plug it in, but not the data cable. I knew the data cable had more give from the other end of it, so I careful pulled it with, ashamed to say, force.

I heard tape giving away, so I figured it was taped down underneath. I managed to get just enough length to plug it in. Add a comment. The guide was extremely helpful, however, there are a few things that I wanted to mention that might add to the guide:.

Since my work surface was large enough to allow the bezel to sit on a flat surface while working on the CPU, I did not need to disconnect the microphone cable, thus I wasn't required to remove the tape from the plug. The iMac I fixed was running for over 4 years, so there was a lot of dust around the fan and stuck to the inside of the bezel. This surprised me. Someone might want to keep a small vacuum handy, or get a can of air.

Be warned: This dust will require you to clean the LCD. No getting around it. Since I have big fingers, I was finding it almost impossible to reconnect the LCD cable that is underneath the power inverter logic board. So I found it much easier to remove the four screws on that small logic board, lift it up, plug the cable back into the bottom, and reattach the board. Otherwise I would have spent a long time trying to plug the cable. Thanks again! Managed to upgrade my 320GB to a 2TB drive with no real fuss.

You should get a SATA external dock and do the OSX install and TimeMachine recovery so your HDD is ready to go. You should boot test as well before the change out procedure. One recommendation. When you reassemble the front glass to the LCD its a good idea to let an air purifier run for a few hours in the room first. Wiping the LCD builds a small static charge and dust immediately sticks to the glass or LCD. The air filter trick was magic.

Guide worked perfectly. Wish I would have had some canned air on hand to clean out the innards.

Other than that it was great. Only thing I messed up was not getting the front bezel back on perfectly. I had a little foam pushed down over the access door after getting the bezel on making it impossible to get the access door back on. So I just left it off for now. When I am feeling a little more ambitious I may take all those screws off to fix this. After installing I just put in my original Snow Leopard install CD and rebooted. Had to go to disk utilities and reformat the new drive and then everything installed just fine.

I will upgrade to Mountain Lion after Snow Leopard. I opted for this route because I had the Snow Leopard CD handy and just wanted to make sure the hard drive install was proper. The hard drive I installed was a Seagate 2TB 7200 RPM that I picked up from Crucial for $110. Old hard drive was completely dead. Thank you iFixit and Brittany for this guide. I was able to install a 1TB drive to replace the original 320GB that had failed.

Luckily it would still work for a few hours before freezing so I was able to make a Mavericks USB installer and back up to an external Western Digital before it eventually stopped turning on at all. Thanks for stocking all the items in the EU store as well. One thing I would mention is that as the spudger was not listed under the 'tools needed' section I forgot to buy one, luckily I bought one off Amazon which arrived after the iFixit package and before my hard drive replacement, but in the future it might be an idea to include it under tools needed. I followed this guide to swap the HD for an SSD, and the main problem was finding a suitable way to mount the SSD. You need a 3.5'-2.5' bracket which has the outer mounting points of a 3.5' drive and accepts the same large-threaded screws as a 3.5' drive. Most are either shorter than a 3.5' drive and/or are threaded for smaller screws.

In the end I found this plastic bracket: But when the drive was mounted properly in the middle of the bracket, the SATA data cable did not reach to it. So I cut away one of the plastic fins, and lashed the drive to the near side of the bracket with one screw and a cable tie right around it. It does the job surprisingly well - I don't think it will shake loose, and nobody can see it anyway:-). Excellent guide, worked like a charm.

I too disconnected the LCD cable from the LCD end, much easier. When replacing the thermal sensor, make sure the flat side (with the label on it) and not the rounded side faces down against the drive before you replace the bracket and tape.

Also, helps to have a good clean microfiber cloth and can of compressed air on hand. I used the air to clean the insides as best I could, but it really helped with cleaning the LCD before replacing the glass panel. The replacement kicked up a ton of dust onto the LCD that I only noticed with a flashlight, so I alternated cloth and canned air to get it as dust free as possible before replacing the panel. There were streaks under the glass panel I never knew existed, and now my display is brighter now than ever before. My old iMac has a new lease on life, and a week later is running strong. Thanks, iFixit!

It's surprising the hard drive in my mid-2007 iMac lasted as long as eight years. But it became so slow that even typing often produced the beach ball of death. Memory upgrade to 4Gb had minimal effect. So I nearly spent £1600 on a replacement up to date iMac. Then I spotted the 9to5 guide and subsequently yours.

I have no experience of the insides of computers but could find no local expert to do this work. Trying for help from the nearest Apple dealer was a no-no. They just want you to buy their latest machine.

Installation De System Remplacement Hdd For Mac Mac

But, with the help of your guide (and my wife), I did it myself with no problem. The tools cost about £20 and the SSD £250 (a 1Tb Samsung 850 EVO), plus a small amount for the TRIM enabler. I now have my fantastic iMac back again and don't even have to listen to the whir of a hard drive - or a fan! Thank you so much for publishing this information.

Well done with this guide, which I had next to me as I replaced my 500 Gb HDD (WD5000AAKS SATA) for a 500 Gb SDD unit (Samsung 850 EVO). However, I now have a fan spinning like mad, trying to cool a disk that is believed to be too hot, and that is due to the fact that my former HDD had a 8 pin port (4 per row), right next to the power and the SATA connectors, in which the HDD temperature sensor wire end of was plugged. That is, the HDD had a built-in temperature sensor. Since I could not connect this to the new SSD drive, leaving it open might be signaling my OS to keep the fan always on. I would not want to disable the fan completely, however, nor I believe a third party software is really necessary. Ideally I'd disable a 'fan on' signal in response to a 'hot hard drive' signal. Is there anyone here who tried such a solution?

It this is impossible, then I wonder what type of probe should I obtain and attach to what is now the loose end of the HDD temperature cable. Is this a thermistor? Excellent instructions, it took me about 15 minutes to change the hard drive. A few notes: 1.

For step 4 on my unit I had two 35mm in the bottom center, two 25mm on the bottom outside and two more 25mm on the right hand side of the screen, leaving me with six 13mm screws on the top and left hand side. If you have someone to hold the display panel, or a way to prop it securely, you can skip steps 7 and 11, this makes the process go very smoothly. Getting El Capitan on when the previous hard drive was completely shot took about 10 hours. My other Mac was too old to be upgraded to Lion. So I couldn't make a USB install on the live Mac from the App Store. My Snow Leopard DVD was destroyed, and the hard drive which had the recovery partition was dead. The nearest Apple Store is a 320 mile round trip.

I found other sources for the El Cap installation, but posting about that is probably against the rules here. Do not remove the display cable from the board!

It is very hard to remove, personal experience, and it is unsettling to try and get it back on without feeling like your going to break something. Either have a buddy hold the display on its edge while you quickly remove the hard drive or remove the LCD power cable from the screen itself. It is very easy to do.

Just peel back the tape and pull straight up on the connector to remove it. I had to use a pair of pliers to grip the connector as I have big fingers and was afraid I might pull the cables from the connector.

Very easy to then reattach cable and push tape back down. I have all the parts for this model save for the screws. The iMac came to me disassembled and missing the following screws: STEP 4: 13mm T8 x8 OR 13mm T8 x6 & 25mm T8 x2 25mm T8 x4 OR 25mm T8 outer x2 & 35mm T8 inner x2 STEP 8: 5.3mm T6 x2 STEP 10: 12mm T8 x8 STEP 23: T8 hard drive bracket x2 STEP 24: T8 connector side x2 Any tips for finding inexpensive replacements for these (and for determining which I would need for STEP 4)? The inexpensive part being key, or it’s not really worth doing anything more than recycling the poor old machine.

. Just before the latest MacBook Pro (s aapl) updates were released, that the new models would adopt solid-state drives (SSD) in addition to hard disk drives (HDD) and drop internal optical DVD drives across the line. That sounded perfect to me. As I dove for the couch cushions in search of spare change to add to my computer upgrade fund, I considered that I didn’t really need a new computer. What I wanted was SSD.

But SSD tech is expensive — really expensive if I wanted the same amount of storage offered by my MacBook Pro’s HDD. Luckily, there’s a way to have both. Inspired by others, I decided to remove my optical drive and install an SSD in its place and pair it with a large hard drive. Advantages of Paired Storage. I love this setup. I have the blazing fast speed of the SSD (it really does feel like getting a new computer) and I have enough room for everything I need thanks to the spacious HDD.

There are some other advantages that might not be obvious at first glance, too:. You can install an alternate system on the HDD. I have Snow Leopard installed on the SSD for everyday work and I have Lion installed on the hard drive for testing. You can use Boot Camp to install Windows on the HDD because it is a true internal drive.

Boot Camp won’t work with an external drive, but it works great with this setup and it doesn’t use any of the space on the precious SSD. I have lots of room for Virtual Machines on the 500GB HDD so I can create other testing setups as needed. Yes, I have to connect an external optical drive every time I need to install something from disc, but once I was done with the initial setup I haven’t needed it that much. It really has proved to be the perfect arrangement for my needs.

Here’s how you can do it with your own MacBook. Click to enlgarge. What to Order. — $280. Seagate (s stx) 500 GB 7200RPM drive — about $70. external USB enclosure for the slim optical drive — about $30. external USB enclosure for the 2.5″-inch HDD — about $20.

blazing fast computer with lots of free space — PRICELESS! Sizing Things Up To get the space requirements for your SSD, select your drive and “Get Info” to see how much space is used (make sure to empty the trash first!). Now check how much space is being used by the User folder(s) on your computer. The difference between the two is all the system files and applications that you will want to put on the SSD. The Users folders themselves can go on the HDD. As an example, I was using about 300 GB on my HDD.

The Applications (including CS5 (s adbe) and Xcode), root Library and System folders take up about 53 GB of space. My Home folder takes up about 240 GB (and my iTunes Media is on a network share). I wanted enough room for my system files and applications on the SSD, and some room left over for a portion of my user files so that these frequently used files would benefit from the speed of the SSD.

Picking the Right SSD Using my computer as an example, I could conceivably get by with a 60GB SSD (I have 53 GB of system and application files, as mentioned). But that’s cutting it too close for the system files (OS X needs 4-5 GB of free space just for temp files and such things). And it would mean that all user files would have to go on the HDD. On top of that, early reports indicate that SSDs benefit from extra free space to keep them running fast. In my case, that would mean at least 80 GB. I wanted to get a drive from the high-performing line, so I moved up to the next available size of 115GB.

If you’re struggling with the decision, it’s always a good idea to buy as much storage as you can afford. Removing the Optical Drive I have held various certifications in Apple hardware repair starting back in 1994, but I honestly didn’t need any of that training to upgrade my mid-2009 MacBook Pro.

Any uni-body MacBook or MacBook Pro is pretty easy to get into. Is a great resource for a detailed photo walk-through of the steps to remove the optical drive from your Mac. I placed the optical drive in an external slim USB enclosure so I could continue to use it, and I also have an external Blu-ray drive for any DVDs or CDs that I might need.

I also removed my existing hard drive, placing it in an external enclosure, and installed a new 500 GB 7200RPM drive from Seagate in its place. You might choose to stick with your computer’s existing HDD, depending on your storage needs. Setting up your new drives in Disk Utility. Click to enlarge.

I decided to do a clean install of the system to the SSD and then copy over select files from my user folder. I booted from the OS X installation disc (I actually have an external FireWire 800 hard drive set up for this purpose – saves 20-30 minutes), formatted both drives with Disk Utility and ran the installer. When that was done, I booted to the SSD, ran the guided setup, Software Update, and installed my core applications. Handling Users and Home Folders There are a couple of choices here. I could to the HDD, but I wanted the benefits of the SSD for some frequently used files from the Home folder.

I decided on a mixed solution where I could keep some user folders on the SSD (/Applications, /Desktop, /Library in particular) and the folders with hefty storage requirements (Documents, Downloads, Movies, and Pictures) on the HDD. I kept the /Music folder on the SSD so that iTunes would be able to quickly load the iTunes Library file, which is the index to all of the media files and the associated metadata like ratings and play count. I had previously set the preferences in iTunes to point the iTunes Media Folder location to a network share, so all of my media files are actually on a network share.

I suspect that most people would want to keep their /Music folder on the SSD and use the advanced preferences tab in iTunes to move the iTunes Media Folder to the hard drive. I copied the old Documents, Downloads, Pictures and Movies folders from my original HDD (now installed in an external enclosure) to their new home on the big internal hard drive. Once I had them in place, I was ready to fix up my Home folder. Symlinks The trick to splitting up your Home folder so that some stays on the SSD and some points to the HDD is to use symlinks. Symlinks are a function of the UNIX underpinnings of OS X to create something like an alias, but at a low-level in the filesystem. I created links to point certain directories in my Home folder to locations on the HDD. After creating the links, those folders appear to be in the “normal” spot in my Home folder, but they don’t use any room on the SSD as they act like an alias that points to the HDD.

Even thought the image below shows “Alias” as the kind for these link files, don’t make the mistake of creating an alias in the Finder. You will need to use the command line to.

Bottom Line This new setup has everything I need. Incredible boot times, fast application launching, and overall snappy performance.

Installation De Systeme Replacement Hdd For Macbook

I have a triple-boot system with Snow Leopard, the developer preview of Lion, and Windows 7, with room for a few Virtual Machines too. Now that the Mac App Store is taking off, I don’t even have to hook up the optical drive very often.

It’s beautiful. If you’ve done something similar, I would love to hear about it. If you want to try this setup and have questions, I’ll try to answer in the comments below. Guillaume Lambert I got a mid-2009 MBP 15″ w/ anti-glare screen, and the bluetooth radio is located (when the case is opened, and upside down) in the top left, sitting over the Data Doubler. I re-opened it last night and checked if anything was disconnected and everything is ok. Could I have damaged the wires while installing the Data Doubler? Or maybe should I try to disconnect and reconnect the wires for the bluetooth?

There is a gold and silver connector, is both for the bluetooth? Thanks for the help! Nice article man, I’m really itching on doing this upgrade for my mid-2009 MBP (2.53Ghz, 4Gb RAM, 250Go 5400rpm HDD), but I have a question: I work 95% of the time with my lid closed, hooked-up on a 24″ Apple Cinema Display. I red on some forums that they were sleep/wake problems with sandforce SSDs, as far as needing to force reboot the computer. Any info on that? I’m currently looking for either doing the SSD upgrade – or – selling my MBP & buying a maxed-out MBA 13″. Decision decision;) Thanks in advance!

The early 2009 MBP’s were the first to have SATA optical drives. Everything before that was ATA/IDE and will not work with SSD storage. New Mac models will typically have an updated build of OS X to include drivers for new hardware updates. That build is on the system disks for that machine so it can boot because retail DVDs may not support that hardware. The changes are usually rolled into the next OS X update. The MB Air models followed the same pattern.

Your MBP is coming up on 5 years. In about 14 months, Apple will stop providing replacement parts to repair it.

I wouldn’t put another cent into it. Save up for a replacement. Jeff I did the same upgrade last November and have done it for app. 20 clients since then. It is an amazing amount of “bang for buck”. A couple of things might help others Symbolic Links – this simple freebie makes creating symbolic links as easy as making aliases Downloads – create a folder on your HDD for Downloads and then modify your preferences in all your browsers to use the new Downloads folder on the HDD As the prices of SSDs continue to drop, we may well be able to stop using the 2 drive approach but for the time being, this is hands down the most incredible speed boost you’ll ever get for $300. What is has made clear for me and all my clients is that the speed of the chip in my Mac is not nearly as important as the speed getting the data in out and all about.

Boo For those who have Macbook Pros with ExpressCard slot can get an ExpressCard slot insertable SSD. I have this kind of setup for a 15months now and i can assure you – it is best of the three worlds – i have speed, i have space, i have superdrive. And also the setup is super simple: 1) insert the drive 2) clone the system (except Movies, Pictures, Music) 3) reboot Additional advantages are the super simple doc protection if you leave it unattended (or in a hotel) – just pull the ssd out and put it in your wallet (it is small). If something happens to your computer (had to change the video card on mine) you can attach the ssd to any intel based mac via USB and work on (if you create on that computer a user like yours, then delete the user folder, then create a symlink to your user folder on ssd, you don’t even have to reboot the donor computer – just switch the users and rock on):).

There is no real difference to OS X. However, from a hardware perspective, the HDD bay is designed with rubber grommets and some separation from the unibody case to minimize vibration. The cooling system is also designed to vent heat from the HDD in that bay. The optical drive can obviously produce some heat under heavy use, but this is generally infrequent and short-lived. I don’t have any evidence or empirical testing to support my decision, but I felt safer putting the HDD in the main bay and the relatively cool SSD in the optical bay. Thanks for a very good post!

I just installed a 120 gb SSD and a 500 gb seagate hybrid hd with 8 gb SSD in my brand new 2011 mbp 15″. Ive installed snow leopard on the SSD and I’m ready to set up my home folder but then I read this post about how smart you linked it all instead of just pointing to the home folder via account options. However, I’m not good enough in terminal to do this. Can you help me through the process?

Installation De System Remplacement Hdd For Mac Pro

Can you send me an email so you maybe can help me on iChat? Maybe even via screen sharing? Please drop me an email.